All Roads Lead South!

In the last blog, we had reached Deadhorse and did the obligatory sticker ‘thing’.

Then it was time to find our accommodation across the street - a three storey, multi blocked building on stilts, that looked like oversized shipping containers. Everything was about function in this place. Wipe your feet, plastic slippers for your boots and an office reception. Inside it was like any other hotel, though designed for the workers (who flew in to Deadhorse). After dragging Richie from his numerous tasks, we were shown to room 121 (I just can’t get away from that previous life of being at work). A bunk bed, wardrobe, reclining comfy chair, a shower and a toilet - perfect, until we filled it with all our gear…

The ‘block’ had a refreshments area with fridges and freezers full of different meals. Microwaves to heat it up and (the best part) all included in the price. An added bonus was the free laundry facilities. After hearing the hunters complain about the cost of food and water at Deadhorse and hearing a shower at another ‘block’ was $40!, the room price started to seem reasonable when everything was included.

Let’s talk about the weather - a great British past-time and not something to be missed here. It was HOT! Incredibly HOT! Not a cloud in the sky and, being so far North, endless sunshine. The thinner atmosphere at the Poles, means there is less ‘air’ to absorb and scatter the solar radiation, so it feels more intense - hotter still! At least, that’s my theory and boy, did it feel hot! But hang on a minute, this is not what we signed up for! We had heated clothing and winter sleeping system (camping on the way up/down). What was happening?! The warmest few days of the year, so far, at nearly 29C. There was a part of me that felt cheated that we were in shorts and T-shirts within the Arctic Circle!

29C does have its bonus though.

We were booked on the Arctic Ocean bus that would take us within the Govt controlled areas and allow us access to the shoreline and a swim (should you choose to). Our driver and guide was a Biology student working his summer break and he proved to be extremely knowledgable about the wildlife that was everywhere! The North Slopes have very few predators in type and numbers, making it a safe place to rear young and this is exactly what the birds do - they fly in at the start of the summer, hatch their chicks and they grow fast enough to all fly out at the end of the summer. It is a true bonanza with many species making the long trip North.

There is much to be said about the abundant wildlife but we were there for the swim - well, Isi was - I was there to hold her towel. As it turns out, the day was so warm the water in the bay was like a summers dip at Blackpool, so yes, I went in too! More than once and loved every minute of it. However, it was very different to Blackpool. We were in the land of the Polar Bear and whilst there were none to be seen (the local resident had been recently ‘dispatched’ as he became too familiar with people and became a threat), we could see its hunting grounds on the horizon - a shelf of sea ice had come in overnight and obscured the horizon line between sea and sky. Surreal!

As the roads within Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay are made of rock and gravel, there aren’t many vehicles without smashed windscreens - out tour bus was no different. As such, the government insist that everyone wear safety glasses, yet no one does - except to get through the checkpoint. So, we put on the glasses as we approach the security guard, who checks we are present (giving our passports back having checked we were ‘safe’) and as soon as we drive away, we take them off. Pointless bureaucracy but necessary for us to gain access.

After another night of ‘free’ food at Brooks Camp, it was time to take our leave - but not before we filled a doggy bag for the trip. ;-)

Next task was to fill up. Fuel prices are double the standard US rate at around $7 per gallon. Everyone we met was complaining about the cost of fuel until we pointed out that even at Deadhorse, the cost was cheaper than the UK - I also pointed out that we did not drive around in gas-guzzling V8’s…. Fuel is expensive as, like everything, it has to be brought in by truck. The pipeline takes the crude away and the trucks bring back the refined.

As with our trip up, we needed to carry extra fuel. We filled the bladders but over-filled them and could not get them to seal. We were not going to lose our liquid gold, so I rode up to the store and bought a 2 gallon jerry-can for the princely sum of $40 - everything comes up the haul road! As it turns out, the jerry-can has become our go-to for other rides where we need to carry fuel! All this in full riding gear and 29C Arctic sun - I was not a happy bunny!

Back on the road and the pleasures of the return trip down the haul road. Where we were doing 20-30mph on the way up, we were doing 50-60mph on the way down. Grip with the knees, power on and guide the front wheel like the prow of a boat. We were getting better!

We were determined to get some epic drone footage, so I did the ‘follow-me’ setup but as we pulled away, the drone lost sight of us and just stopped. Good or bad timing (depending on your viewpoint) a truck, and all the dust they throw up, passed underneath the drone making for a great clip - almost as if we planned it! (you’ll need to watch the YouTube video to see the epic footage!)

Back to Galbraith Lake and setting up the tent just as a thunderstorm that had been developing all day, headed our way and gave a proper soaking, just as we were settling down. A big yellow school bus pulled up in the pitch next to us, and proceeded to make a lot of noise. Being British, we sucked it up with a moan and a grumble and Isi says it didn’t go on for too long (I fell asleep and my “bear aware” snoring was a great rival).

Mossie bites were a thing…

The following morning, Joel popped over to say hello and introduce himself and the bus - Global Convoy - is a bus tour travelling from Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia along the Pan American Highway, collecting passengers as it goes. We were introduced to the current passengers and provided a much needed coffee. Needless to say, they left before us as we take forever to pack up!

The return trip up the Atigun Pass was even more beautiful than the previous time - a few more clouds but still blessed with stunning views and dry skies. Please don’t think we got off scott-free, as the roadworks and various treatments of the road surface made for interesting sphincter movements to rival any Friday night curry!

Just before Coldfoot, we popped in to see Wiseman - a small community of houses and an excuse for an airfield. How they manage to survive this far North is unfathomable to us softies, but they do. A great diversion from the Haul Road and a must visit for anyone passing. More postcards posted and the race is on to see which ones arrive first and how long they take.

Our goal was to reach 5-mile camp again and, as we pulled on to site, there was the big yellow bus! Even before we were able to get the tent up, we were invited to join them for the evening and share their meal. A great evening of laughs and good food followed and yet another reason why overlanding is so rewarding.

The following morning, the bus left before us (no surprise) but we caught them up some time later and continued to leap-frog all the way back to Fairbanks - Walmart car-park, to be precise! A quick Google and we found a place called Svens-hostel, just a little way out of town and nearer the airport. Turns out, the bus was also going to the same place to drop off one of their passengers - Missie. Missie had flown over from Holland and had a return flight booked from Panama. However, she was leaving the bus in Fairbanks, where she would make alternative arrangements. Missie became a friend at Sven’s over the next 2 days, and I often wonder where she is now - last plan (numerous changes) was to fly to Mexico and see what happens then.

We spent two nights at Sven’s - a really friendly hostel base with shared dorms or own tree-houses or tents. They were full but found space for us. Showers were 25c per minute and this seemed steep, until we realised that there was no mains water - the permafrost negated any chance of mains water, being this far out. With a full camp, they had to go out 20 times in one day, just to fill a big bowser of water! Some things we are starting to take less for granted - water being one of them! We met some great people over the two days, including Jim James, a neurosurgeon, and his family - taking a few days out before leaving their daughter at Uni to study medicine. Jim became a great source of information and someone it would be good to meet again.

As with all hostels, you meet all sorts. A Kiwi, Miles, blasted in on his T7 - someone travelling light and very much at home on the T7 as an enduro bike. He partied hard and rode hard - pretty typical really. Then there was “Frenchie”, who had bought new tyres but had little experience in changing them. Under the dutiful supervision of the Kiwi, he did a very good job - even if he insisted on pumping up the tyres with a cheap Ali-express hand pump, more suited for the wheelbarrow tyre, than a DR650. He refused the offer of ‘proper’ tools, saying he needed to use what he had - a commendable approach to life on the trail!

Fairbanks was covered in a smog of wood-smoke from forest fires raging in the area. You could smell it, taste it and see it. Not great for personal health but just something you got on with. Forest fires were particularly bad this year, with the fire-season extending later in the summer (all that lovely dry weather we were enjoying).

The day came to leave and it took us nearly 2 hours just to get out of Fairbanks. Too many diversions providing conflicting advice and not being the easiest to follow. A local said she too had problems with the diversions, so comforting to know we were not alone! Then we were off to North Pole.

Whoever named the town North Pole had an eye for marketing. A town with little more than a number of streets (Claus Rd, Reindeer Drive, Rudolph Rd etc.,) and a giant Santa with a gift shop full of all ages, pouring over the typical tourist tat - we settled for an ice-cream and writing postcards to be sent from Santas Grotto. Not my favourite of seasons or places but, at least, I can say I went to North Pole and met Santa!

Our destination for the day was somewhere back through Fairbanks and down the Park’s Highway to spend a free night at Bears Creek Rest area - down by the creek. As we were pitching camp, a fire tender arrived to fill up his water bowser, so we asked if we were OK. Sure, no problem, as they have control of the fires and rain is forecast. Anyway, if it did come this way, we had the creek to get in to!

As it turns out, we had a full night of rain as we were stuck under a band of storms - no fire risk for us!